DAY 3 – San Sebastián-Donostia – Zarautz – Deba
Photo of the miniature of the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus in San Sebastian, that you can see when you enter the church.
On the second Day of our walk to Santiago we started from San Sebastian. We woke up around eight, tired and exhausted. I hardly managed to get out of the bed. I was feeling a kind of stiff, but I didn’t want to take any medicine against the pain. I knew that after several minutes, after several steps and a quick shower everything will be ok. We had to get rid of our bags, because walking with it seemed impossible. So I’ve sent several messages to Jose. His answers were strange, so Ann warned me that he might think something else from what he wrote. She laughed: Well, I know that you understand English, but he probably does not, like I do not. So, maybe we can better understand each other than two of you.
Well, she was right. He sent a message that we must have our bag ready before nine and that the price for one route will be ten euro. Split it two, since we had only one bag, this option was great solution of our problems.
Despite of the rain and foggy weather, knowing that Jose from Petit bag will carry our big bag today was a nice feeling, a relief. We just had to be fast because he was coming in less than an hour. Yesterday Ann showed me his photo so I had his image in my mind. I took a shower, put some sun cream on and felt ready for the second day. The bag was significantly heavier since we managed to put two bags in one.
The room in the Pension had one star. I guess this star was for the elevator. We went down and started to walk near the next street. Ann was a head of me when a man with a smile on his face came to me. I knew it was Jose, so I asked: Are You Jose from Le Petit bag? Yes, yes. Let me take your bag. So he took my bag and we headed to his car. Ann came astounded how I found a nice smiling man so fast that wanted to carry my heavy bag. I told her that I didn’t find a man who wants to carry my bag, but that this man is Jose – the man we were waiting for. She started to laugh.
As soon as we left our bag we were free as birds. What a difference is it to carry just a little bag, what a difference is to leave the heavy burden aside and to walk freely. If only we can do things like this in our everyday life….
It was time for a coffee and a good breakfast and we found a nice little Coffee shop with amazing breakfast. Well, I do not do breakfast, but Ann does. She enjoyed in every bite of a croissant, pie and a black tea with honey and milk. She enjoyed too much I would say because we continued from there around eleven.
First we visited a lovely church and got our stamp. The Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus was really impressive and it became more impressive when we went inside and talked with clerk. You don’t have to understand the foreign language, still you can sense the good will and good will. You can sense peacefulness and tranquility… you can sent… you know… And we felt that way. Hmmmm, there is something in this Way….
Yesterday we left the shell and arrow of our way near beach, so we had to find them again today. The rain has just started, but it didn’t destroy the feeling of amazement due to the view. I could live in this town. It has everything. It has the town, nice flats with balcony, the forest and yes.. the sea… It has beauty and some pleasant atmosphere… I should put it on my list for some other visit…..
We walked along the beach. Just before the end of the beach, at the corner of Alderdi-Eder gardens I saw a sculpture of famous Spanish Don Quixote and his Sancho Panza. The sculpture was made by th Sevillian sculptor Lorenzo Coullaut-Valera
(1876-1932), but it was placed here in 1973. You can find similar copy of these two figures in Madrid, although they are the bigger ones. What is interesting, this smaller version is actually the original – the prototype, and the bigger one is the copy.
I hope we two didn’t look like them although we, me for sure, are fighting with our own windmills.
When we came to the end of the beach the road started to climb. The mount Igeldo It was not easy, but it was much easier without the heavy bag. I felt a bit of a sorry that we didn’t have more time to visit the Kutxaespacio Science Museum and sit near Albert Einstein sculpture (artwork of Javier San Miguel), nor see the monument to Queen Maria Cristina (made by Jose Diaz Bueno) in the Ondarreta Gardens, the one that decided to spend the royal summer in San Sebastian and change the history of this city.
We didn’t see the children’s game, growing shapes, the silhouettes, museums, cultural centres, art galleries and many other interesting places. Conclusion…. I must come back here again….
We soon saw a nice English german speaking lady. First we thought that it was Marina from the first day, but then we noticed that although she has a similar look from a distance, she is someone else. She had a big, big bag, still she walked very fast. She stopped near a little table with chairs, stamp and water so we put a second stamp in our passports for this day. It is a work of el peregrino Jose Maria Soroa. Nice. ¡Chapó!
A Santiago… 795K….. interesting…..
The road soon went into forest. Song of birds, horses and cows, donkeys and dogs, marked our way to the next stop. From time to time we saw a cyclist or a runner, but most of the times, we were alone.
On the right we still had a view on wonderful beaches. Despite of the rain (I repeat) it was great. The climbing lasted for long, very long… but after some 14K from our start of the walk we finally reached the top of the mountain called Munioetazar (295 mt). Even though the weather was not that hot as the day before and we didn’t have big bag, I was completely wet at the top. This German-speaking english lady was fast as we were.. amazing!! How can she do it with such a big bag – I wondered…
After the top it became easier, we only had to go down to the sea level to reach the little city called Orio
. Going down, I wanted to run. I miss running. Still, I do not have running shoes… only sandals.. still a bit of running made me feel better.
Orio is a small little fishing town of the province of Gipuzjkoa in the Basque Autonomous Community of norther Spain. It is placed near the river Oria. Specific spanish style was visible everywhere. Houses, church, streets, yards.. really lovely and somehow happy 🙂
As I walked toward the city a smiling Spanish woman asked me something. I didn’t understand so I continued speaking in English. She looked at me with confusion, so I realized that I have to use all my Spanish-speaking capabilities if I want to talk to her. Well, I know it is not amazing, but I managed to talk about the weather, about my camino, about my country and where I am going. Buen Camino…. at the end… oh, really nice. People are here really frendly. I like this, I like this frendliness very much.
Near the street I noticed a strange sculpture made of stones. Hmmmm, modern art? We passed near the closed San Martin’s Chapel, and few spanish looking mens with dogs that decided to take a short rest there. Then came the Female Sextons House that actually looks like a broken wall. A lot of crosses along the road, an albergue-hostel and finally entered in the Kale Nagusia. On the next little square I saw a bust of Maria Maestrari (1883-1962) at the top of a little fountain near Calle Mayor. Finally we came to the closed iglesia parroquial de San Nicolase de Bari y un Centro de Interpretacion del Camino. They were both closed, so we decided to find a stamp in – guess where – a coffee shop.
It was a time for a short stay.. we took a coffee and took some tapas.. The lady in the coffe shop was nice and she teaches me spanish, too. I like polite people.. if I ever come back here, I will go there again.
See, we do not need much for happiness. Just a smiling face and good will. You feel welcome, and you are ok. Why is it so hard to find this in the everyday life?!?
After Orio, and passing the river filled with little colorful boats the road was going to Zarauz. The road was not that hard for us and we managed these kilometers without problems. We met a lot of animals on the way… and enjoyed. It is much easier to enjoy in the nature when you don’ have to search for the last resorts of your energy to just do the walk…
Going down to Zarautz I dreamed that the town that we see in the distance is Deba. I even asked one young German boy who enjoyed the view while reading his little book about the Northern Way if he maybe knows where Deba is. He was confused and tried to find it on his map. He couldn’t so he concluded that it is because he has a guide in German.
… a coastal town in the central Gipuzkoa, that is almost five times bigger than Orio and where the longest beach in the Basque Country and Cantabrian cornice is. Who wouldn’ love the city with a 2.5K sandy beach?
We tried to enter the gothic church Santa Maria la Real – the main church, but were not lucky enough to do so. It was – guess what – closed. But we wanted our stamp from Zarautz – the lovely city. Luckily, the Zarautz tower which is home to the Museum of Art and History, a place of archeological site which contains remains that show the history of this city from fifth century B.C. until today (along with the church) and the oldest building in town was open. Very pleasant young lady gave us a wonderful stamp in our Credentials.
We didn’t stop there. We just walked along the main street – “Kale Nagusia” (in Basque) watching the buildings, people, animals and nature. Zarautz has a lot of interesting places to visit like the beach, the Luzea tower, Palace of narrows and a lot of interesting restaurants. Eating seafood here would be a good choice, but we continued. We took this long walk to Getaria. A lot of people walked this way since it looks like it is a kind of recreational zone, but they still tell us regularly Buon camino” nice 🙂
Again, it was not hot and not cold – the perfect weather.. so it was easy to walk. Approaching Getaria I realized that I lost my bet. This town in distance was not Deba. 😦 Well, at least I am sure I will soon eat ice-cream, ne?
Step after step we were getting closer to Deba. I was convinced that we can do it even if it rains, even if it’s late. Still Ann started to walk slower and slower… and out of strange reason wanted to ruin the walk with a bus connection to Deba. I know that it was late, but in a worst case scenario we would be in the room that we booked in Agroturismo around 9 pm. Since this is nowhere, we will have no possibilities to do anything. But she continued that she is tired and her legs hurt and that this is too much for us, that we are under stress.. that we must admit it.
Stress? Admit what? That I cannot walk? How is this possible?!? Hey, what are you talking about? I don’t understand…
I said that the only problem was that we started too late. It was noon when we left the town and we had around 40K in front of us. Faster? We can be faster only with running and this was not our plan. Running 40K everyday – well, this is not possible, but walking…… We are very good and it would be a pity to destroy the Camino with the bus. She got nervous and angry.. so I made my decision. I will come back and do it as planned. I will come back here, even if I have to do it by myself. More information, smaller bag, earlier start of the day – and that’ll do.
This time… let the Camino show us the way. What will be, will be. It is our first Camino and everything counts. Everything always counts. We’ll see what the road will show us and how we will feel at the end…. I have decided to adjust this trip to her. Paper can stand everything… so beside reality… I will add another note to this notes…. It cannot be detailed as I planned… so let’s make a good story out of it. We will finally reach the Santiago. The trip will still have wonderful moments and we will learn something.
We came to Zumaia. We didn’t even enjoy the city and its famous beaches. The weather was still great, so it really pity that we didn’t have time for it.
The town has two beaches (Itzurun and Santiago), which are of interest to geologists because they are situated among the longest set of continuous rock strata in the world. Known locally as the “flysch” they date from the mid-cretaceous period to the present, a time period of over 100 million years. The K-T boundary is present at the Itzurun beach, and fossils can be found, notably of ammonites. The strata stretches along a distance of about 8 km, between the towns/beaches of Deba and Getaria, with Zumaia lying in the middle. (source: Wikipedia)
Since we came late, we also didn’t have chance to visit the Museum of Art where a lot o masterpieces of El Greco, Rivera, Zurbarán and Goya. There is also a gothic church of San Pedro…. what to say… a great little city to explore.
I must come back, I must come back – a great thunder screamed in my head…. and I will one day for sure. I didn’t see the northern coast the way I wanted…..
We took a bus in Zumaia to a place called Laredo, a town in Cantabrian part of the Spain (somewhere in-between San Sebastian and Bilbao. Without exploring it, or even walking in it, we took a train to Deba.
When we finally arrived in Deba, I needed a break. I wanted to kill my sorrow of missing the cities and walk with at least a coffee and walk through the city and feel the spirit of the town. There were a lot of people on the streets as they had a fest or something..we found tourist office and ask for the address of our Agroturismo.
It is some 3K uphill.. said the lady Ann was shocked. I can’t. We can’t do thus now. Uphill, no, I am finished. I just want to go there.
Do you maybe want a tea or coffee, should we walk a bit here? The result was devastating. She was completely finished. Is this a crisis? Why don’t I feel any of this. I am in my cheap sandals with a short skirt… and strange-looking outfit. I felt if I can walk the whole night… looking at the sea. Is the sea my drug? My hidden supper-power?
I searched for the bus, but it was too late. Taxi? No taxi. Ann was getting angrier.. she ruined the fun. She is taking this too seriously, probably forgetting that we are on a holidays now. Ok. I gave up. I went into a grocery store and asked for help.
We paid 10 € for the taxi that drove us to Rosie and her lovely house. It turned out that the house is directly on the road – on OUR WAY… OMG… only 12K from the point where we decided to shorten the way. Well, considering that we were nowhere with nothing to do, nor to eat or drink – this was a pure waste of time and way. I felt that we made a mistake. I don’t know about Ann, but I was feeling sad at the moment. Crisis? Maybe….
Ok. Tomorrow is another day. One lost battle does not mean that the war is lost. If we continue according to the plan, I will think about these 12K as if it was the result of her crisis.
Good night. Next stop Gernika-Lumo 🙂